Arriving in Aksum was disorienting. The bus came to a halt along a long, tranquil road lined with trees. The streets were nearly empty, and the few people I saw moved at a leisurely pace.
“This is Aksum,” the bus driver said, gesturing towards me as I stepped off. I had arrived at one of Ethiopia’s most sacred sites, a cradle of Orthodox Christianity and the heart of one of Africa’s earliest civilizations.
As the bus departed, I stood alone with my bag. There were no throngs of people, no eager guides, no one offering to help carry my luggage. Across the street, a camel lazily fluttered its eyelashes, almost like it was dozing.
Despite Aksum’s historical significance, the city exudes a sense of quiet rather than grandeur. I wandered through the streets without being bothered by anyone. While its main attractions might not feature prominently on many travelers’ must-see lists, they remain essential for anyone seeking a deeper understanding of Ethiopia’s past.
For Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, Aksum is the legendary resting place of the Ark of the Covenant. It was also home to Africa’s oldest known civilization, the Aksumite Empire, which thrived under King Ezana in the 4th century BC. According to Ethiopian lore and the ancient text Kebra Nagast, the Queen of Sheba, known for her wisdom and beauty, once called Aksum home. The surrounding countryside and town are dotted with numerous archaeological sites, some intriguing and others still under excavation. Exploring them with a knowledgeable guide and in pleasant weather can transform a day into a fascinating adventure.
There are too many sites to cover in detail, but here are some highlights:
King Ezana’s Inscription
In the heart of town lies a modest park that seems an unlikely spot to find Ethiopia’s equivalent of the Rosetta Stone. This ancient stela, kept in a simple shed, recounts King Ezana’s victories in Sabaean, Greek, and Ge’ez—the ancient Ethiopian language—testifying to the vast influence of the Aksumite Empire.
Stelae Field
The Aksumites erected numerous stelae, monumental pillars symbolizing their empire’s power, which once spanned the Horn of Africa and reached across the Red Sea to Yemen. The Stelae Field contains 75 such monuments. The tallest, originally 33 meters, now lies in ruins, but King Ezana’s 23-meter stela still stands proudly. Many of these stelae served as markers for tombs. Although most have been looted, parts of the field remain unexcavated.
The massive stones used for the stelae were transported from quarries about 8 kilometers away, likely utilizing slaves and elephants to roll them into place. The nearby museum showcases bronze artifacts, glassware, jewelry, and other remnants of the ancient empire.
Queen of Sheba’s Pool
This stone reservoir, believed to have been a bathing pool for the Queen of Sheba, is revered by locals for its supposed healing properties, especially regarding fertility.
Church of St. Mary of Zion
Believed to be the oldest church in Ethiopia, originally founded by King Ezana, the current building dates back to the 20th century. Its domed structure is surrounded by olive trees that evoke the ambiance of Jerusalem. Inside, vibrant stained-glass windows in yellow, pink, and blue bathe the spacious circular hall in color. Religious paintings adorn the walls, and a massive chandelier—gifted by Queen Elizabeth II—hangs from the ceiling, with jacaranda flowers scattered on the red-carpeted floor.
A priest (for a small tip) may show you a 500-year-old Bible written in Ge’ez, with names highlighted in red and other text in black. Visitors are encouraged to touch the ancient text for a blessing, but it’s wise to have smaller denominations on hand, as change is often scarce.
Behind the church, a small, stone-guarded building is said to house the Ark of the Covenant, guarded by a specially chosen caretaker. Legends abound about the fate of anyone daring to look upon the Ark, with some stories suggesting divine retribution.
Men may visit the nearby monastery, but women are traditionally barred. One of the explanations is tied to the legend of Queen Gudit, who supposedly destroyed Aksum’s churches during her conquests.
Tombs of King Kaleb and Gebre Meskel
A scenic walk through rural landscapes brings you to these tombs on a gentle hill. Children often linger nearby, selling what they claim to be ancient coins and fragments of quartz unearthed from the fields. Although the original palace is gone, you can descend into well-preserved burial chambers with large stone sarcophagi. According to local legend, tunnels beneath the tombs stretch all the way to Yemen.
In more recent history, these tunnels were used as hideouts during the oppressive Derg regime, which executed dissidents and demanded families pay for the cost of the bullets used.
Additional Sites
For those with a deeper interest in history, Aksum offers several lesser-known sites, as well as churches tucked into rocky cliffs accessible only by ropes. The temple at Yeha, the oldest known structure in Ethiopia, along with the adjacent church of Abuna Aftse, makes for an enriching day trip from Aksum.
