Luxury fashion brand Dior made history by hosting a runway show in Mumbai, India. The move acknowledges India’s long-standing role in European high fashion and the growing power of its luxury consumers. The Pre-Fall 2023 collection was presented to a star-studded crowd including Bollywood Rekha, Sonam Kapoor, and Anushka Sharma, as well as model Cara Delevingne and actor Maisie Williams.
The Indian Inspiration
The location of the show was a clear inspiration. The runway was adorned with marigold and diya lamps, and the clothes featured Madras check and Benarasi brocade fabrics, mirror work, tie-dye detailing, Nehru collars, and kurta tailoring. Dior’s choice of Mumbai comes at a time when the luxury sector is increasingly bullish in India. Indian shoppers have become a major force in the fashion industry, with the country’s levels of disposable income jumping by more than 24% between 2019 and 2022, according to Anul Sareen, senior research analyst at business intelligence firm Euromonitor.
Acknowledging Indian Masters
Dior often turns to Indian masters bacause of their exceptional craft skills. Many of the embroideries and textiles on runway were made by Chanakya International, a Mumbai atelier that the French label’s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, has worked closely with for almost three decades. Dior has also turned to Chanakaya School of Craft, a non-profit institute run by Chankaya International and staffed by communities of female textile workers, for various runway backdrops.
This kind of acknowledgment that the Indian makers behind an international fashion house’s products are being given has not been seen before, according to Mayank Kaul, a celebrated textile designer and curator. Indian-produced fabrics will often go on to be assembled, and are therefore labeled as being “made,” in Europe. According to leading stylist and former Vogue India fashion director Anaita Shroff Adajania, this leaves many Indian ateliers feeling unable to take credit for their role. However, the Dior show is being seen as a long-overdue acknowledgment for Indian ateliers.
Dior’s historic runway show in Mumbai celebrates the creativity of Indian artisans and the culture of India while giving them a contemporary flavor. By turning to Indian exceptional craft skills, Dior is acknowledging their role in the international fashion industry.
